27-01-2010 As you all know by now, the competition in Saas Fee has ended pretty good for the team, especially for Dennis and Marianne. They finished pretty good and they are now preparing for Rabenstein. In order to do that, they have taken THE VAN to Italy. Weather is great and it’s even sunny. All gear has dried in the sun and spirits are high. In an 8 minute phone call, I was able to get the following information:
- Dennis has bought new crampons
- Dennis and Marianne have attemted an M10 in Arco (I think they made it too, not sure though)
- Dennis and Marianne were able to attempt the Womans finals route in Saas Fee and they climbed it! That is, the part that was still in place (so Dennis climbs ‘girly’ routes)
- It’s sunny and warm
- More climbing is in the making, not sure exactly what it’s going to be
- If Dennis will be able to get a prize winning position in Rabenstein, he’ll try to make Romania as well
- Dennis might sell me his Fusions, but…
- Marianne thinks I sound like Dennis’ mom…
As you can see, loads of training and preparing for the contest in Rabenstein and loads of fun along the way. I myself have to confess that I’m starting to get jealous…. Let’s hope that the contest will bring great results and that the Romania plans will actually become possible!
That’s it for now. All the best from Dennis and Marianne and keep reading and supporting the blog!
EJO
24-01-2010
The results are in! UIAA just send the results out via Twitter and we’re finally able to do something about our curiosity.
Here’s Dennis’ results:
Men’s lead:number 14 of group B 29th (shared)
Men’s speed: 6th
Way to go Dennis!
For full results, see the UIAA results page
Pictures: Karin Schaffner
Picture:Marianne van der Steen
19-01-2010 Ueschinen
After getting drunk in Daone we took de bus for a ride to Ice climbing Mekka Kandersteg. To find out it was not just us but allmost the complete competition scene was here. Bulgarians, English, Roemenians, Russians, Spanish, Ukranians and the Dutch. So when we finally got up to Ueschinen after a lazy start it was really busy up there over 20 climber’s kicking the shit out of the ice and mixed line’s. So we dicided to go easy and start whit Krass. It took me 2 time’s to top the M8. Marianne almost sended it but it was getting dark so we ski’t down.
photo: Corne Brouwer
Photo: Corne Brouwer
20-01-2010 Ueschienen
Because we arived so late yesterday we got up early(not) and arived at the crack at 12:00 to be there alone with the Spanish and English. So there was enough space in the more icy line’s. So we went on to Pinkphanter. I climbed it in ‘06 whit spurs. Now it took me 2 times to climb it. The first run I lost my ice axe…..
But Marianne made it to lead here first M9+ because after 2 cold attempt she made it al the way to the ice and finished the route as firtst dutch female M9+ climber??..
NED Team IJsklimmen heeft harde leerschool tijdens World Cup Val Daone
(Bron: http://www.nkbv.nl/Alpinisme/Nieuws/5584.html)Jurgen Mesman moest zijn deelname aan de discipline Speed bekopen met een ijsbijldoorn in z’n onderarm wat hem een lelijke vleeswond opleverde. Jurgen had afgelopen maanden hard getraind voor de Worldcups en is gisteren vervroegd teruggereisd naar Nederland.
Bij de heren behaalde Dennis van Hoek, in de discipline Lead, het beste Nederlandse resultaat door 29e te worden in een deelnemersveld van 45 klimmers. Jurgen Mesman werd 39e en Corné Brouwer kwam niet verder dan een 45e en laatste plaats.
Marianne van der Steen werd in de dames Lead wedstrijd 14e van de 16 deelnemers.
In de Speed wedstrijd zette Dennis een prachtige eerste heat neer. Met een tijd van 10,36 seconden klom hij met de besten mee. In de tweede heat ging het fout door, net als Jurgen, te vallen. Beide klimmers werden hierdoor gediskwalificeerd.
De volledige uitslag staat hier.
Voor de nieuwe teamleden gold deze eerste World Cup Ice Climbing met name als leerervaring. Komend weekend staat de World Cup in Saas Fee (SUI) op het programma waarvan, op deze website, uitgebreid verslag zal worden gemaakt.
(English article will follow when I have time to write someting myself)
EJO
Photo: Marianne van der Steem
Dennis got a nice article in the local paper “de Kombinatie” on January 13th 2010. The article describes his recent adventures in Kirov and a bit about ice climbing itself.
This is a great feat for the sports, as ice climbing is little known in Holland. Let’s hope that the next covarage will tell about good results in Daone!
Dennis got a huge article in the local paper “de Kombinatie” on January 13th 2010. The article describes his recent adventures in Kirov and a bit about ice climbing itself.
This is a great feat for the sports, as ice climbing is little known in Holland. Let’s hope that the next coverage will tell about good results in Daone!
http://www.deweekkrant.nl/files/pdfarchief/ZK/20100113/ZK_ZK-1-02_100113_1.pdf
EJO
Dennis has arrived in Val Daone some days ago. Conditions are good and he climbed a nice 300m route.
Currently Dennis and the other athletes are awaiting the opening ceremony to the Icefight. Tomorrow it’s gametime! The competition will start and all climbers have to show what they’re worth yet again!
More info at:
http://www.daoneicemaster.it/lang/EN/homepage
As soon as I have more information, this post will be updated.
EJO
I was disqulified, don’t ask I wont tell 
. see : Dennis Speed
I just finished climbing and it didn’t go really well.. The new rules say that every climber has 2 try’s to clip the first draw so if you fall down before the clip you can start again.
I was climbing as number 3 on the list wearing bib number 16 . The climbing structure is really big made below a ski-jump. With -25 celisius outside it’s really challenging to even be outside. The route was just drytooling with no ice. After a little warming up it was my time to start. Rob Gibson started before me and made it half way.
When i Started there was some light left at 14:45. The start looked realy hard but the part after looked good. The first move was a big sideways move and then a tension move into a little roof. After that 2 hard long figure of fours, which i justed made. But then I tried to made a dynamic move and my axe popped.
So I was having another go because of the new rules and I climbed the same bit and found out the hold was twisted. So I try to climb it any way but I popped off again. I told the judge it was a technical problem so they brought me back to the isolation to wait for another 4 people climb.
Photo Rob Gibson
After waiting and feeling really tired it was my go again. I started the same way reaching the same part made the hold that popped last time and carried on half way up the structure then i made the mistake of trying to climb too fast and poppedf again and fell of. Being really disappointed.
Photo Rob Gibson
I finised at 28 place
Finally i’m here in Kirov, It was a 14 hour train drive from Moscow. And in Russia today its Christmass.. I don’t know why.
The temprature in Moskou was -15 kind a cold but here its even -27 just f*cking freezing.
Before i took the train i stay’d at Pavel Dobinsky’s place and we did some drytooling at a climbing gym across the road, really nice place to stretch the muscle’s.
So now where at the Sputnik Hotel in Kirov. Its really good to meet with all the people i haven’t seen for over a year. We have just drawn the starting numbers for the competition and with new competition regulations it took over 2 hours to sort out. Especially as the russians keep talking about it. The comp itself starts in 2 hours. We leave in 45 minute’s to take a nice walk in the cold.
So I’m of to Russia tomorrow. After a lot of fussing about to obtain a visum, I’m about to set of. My flight for Zürich leaves at 14.00 hours and I’ll transfer to Moscow there. In Moscow, I’ll get the Trans Siberian Express to Kirov. That’s about 1.000 kilometer of traveling. I will participate in in Lead en Speed .
